Have you ever heard the term “medina”? Don’t worry, it’s normal because it is a word derived from Arabic (madīna, “city”) and refers to the old part of cities in the Islamic world, that is, the true historic center that encompasses the city’s centuries-old traditions.
We had never been to a medina before: our first time in a medina was in Fes (or Fez) in Morocco, which – you won’t believe it – hosts one of the oldest and largest medinas in the world. The Medina of Fez is made up of approximately 10,000 (yes, you read that right, 10 thousand) winding streets that intertwine with each other, consisting of narrow alleyways that are often very similar and will quickly make you lose your orientation.
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A visit to the medina of Fez, as you may have already guessed, is like entering a completely different world. Vibrant-colored walls and winding alleys transport you to a place of vibrant colors, sounds, and smells that are completely different from our tradition and everything we are used to (and this is even more startling when you consider that Fez is reachable from Italy in just over 3 hours by plane).
The chaotic yet colorful labyrinth of the medina can be overwhelming, especially when you first arrive and are afflicted by the scorching Moroccan heat, but it is also an extraordinary experience that will make you feel disoriented, and at times connected to something much deeper and I would dare say “divine”.
Don’t be intimidated by what you just read: Fes is a relatively safe and very welcoming city, and with some small precautions, you will quickly get used to it and find your place in Fes. We had a hard time leaving because after just 3 days, we felt at home.
But let’s not linger any longer, and we’ll give you 4 tips on how to navigate the medina of Fez and how to be a little more at ease in the chaotic world that lives among its streets.
- Many people – especially young boys and girls – will try to approach you in order to earn some money by offering to guide you. You’ll be disoriented and lost in the maze of the medina’s streets (not to mention, Google Maps is not very reliable in the thousands of narrow alleys of the medina), so you’ll likely be persuaded to accept their help.
We too let ourselves be accompanied for a short stretch of the road, also because they are usually very insistent and won’t leave you alone. However, if you want to go on your own, be assertive and try saying “La, Shukran” (no, thank you!)
If you don’t want to deal with this issue, which we believe is a typical and sometimes enjoyable aspect of the local culture, ask your hotel or riad for expert and professional guides who will take you around the wonderful historic center with the utmost tranquility.
- The currency, as you may already know, is the Moroccan dirham. Let us give you a quick calculation that may be useful: 11 dirhams correspond to 1€, so prices will seem relatively low. But beware: sellers often don’t display prices, even in shops in the center, and try to propose an increasingly higher amount to the tourist. Always try to negotiate: you won’t seem rude, on the contrary – as they explained to us – bargaining is typical of their culture. Furthermore, ATMs are rarely accepted, so make sure to always have some cash on you.
SIM card: We strongly recommend getting a SIM card with minutes and internet to use during your stay in the medina. As we’ve explained, it’s easy to get lost, so you might need it. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to purchase local SIM cards at the airport in Fez at the moment, and you can only do so once in the city center. There are many vendors in the center, but perhaps the best thing to do is to purchase an eSIM before leaving Italy, so you won’t be isolated and “unreachable” for even a second (here’s the link to an eSIM we always use and recommend: Airalo’s eSIM, a non-physical SIM card that you can purchase online and activate with a QR code, choosing the plan you prefer).
Don’t plan your shopping on typical markets on Fridays: it’s their day of rest, and you’ll find almost everything closed, and you’ll return to Italy empty-handed!
